18ct gold, gem-set and enamel brooch, modelled as an open work…
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18ct gold, gem-set and enamel brooch, modelled as an open work ribbon and bow motif of ropetwist wire design centring an oval sapphire claw-set between an old European-cut diamond surmounted by a bust of Cleopatra supporting an enamel headpiece accented with rose diamonds flanked by a horseshoe and heart motif, accented by diamonds and sapphires, length approximately 60 mm, French assay and maker's marks

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  • Claw Set Jewellery - The description "claw set" in jewellery refers to a setting where the gemstone is held in place by metal prongs that resemble claws. These prongs are bent over the edges of the gemstone to secure it in the setting. This type of setting is commonly used for diamonds and other precious stones.

  • Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
  • Openwork in Jewellery - Openwork, also known as pierced work, is a decorative technique used in jewellery making that involves removing or cutting out sections of metal from a piece of jewellery to create a pattern or design. This technique can be used in a wide range of jewellery styles, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings.

    Openwork jewellery can be made using a variety of different techniques, including hand carving, sawing, and laser cutting. The design can be simple or complex, and can feature a range of different shapes and motifs, from delicate floral patterns to bold geometric designs.

    One of the advantages of openwork jewellery is that it can add visual interest and depth to a piece without adding a lot of weight or bulk. This can be particularly appealing in larger pieces, such as necklaces and bracelets, where heavy materials can be uncomfortable to wear.

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