Van Cleef & Arpels, mother of pearl and diamond butterfly…
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Van Cleef & Arpels, Mother of pearl and diamond butterfly clip brooch, the winds set with gray mother of pearls, highlighted with round brilliant-cut diamonds to the abdomen, signed Vca, numbered CF10973, French assay marks, maker's mark, 18ct gold, weight 22gm, length 4.1 cm. Provenance: The Caroline Laws collection

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  • Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
  • Mother-Of-Pearl - Mother-of-pearl, technical name "nacre", is the inner layer of a sea shell. The iridescent colours and strength of this material were widely used in the nineteenth century as an inlay in jewellery, furniture, (especially papier mache furniture) and musical instruments.

    In the early 1900s it was used to make pearl buttons. Mother-of-pearl is a soft material that is easily cut or engraved.

    Nowadays it is a by-product of the oyster, freshwater pearl mussel and abalone industries.

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