An antique French sapphire and diamond ladies pendant pocket…
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An antique French sapphire and diamond ladies pendant pocket watch, crown wind and set movement, circular white dial with gilded decoration and black Roman numerals,18ct gold case encrusted with alternating rows of old rose cut sapphires and diamonds, suspended from a clover shaped bale and fleur de lys brooch fitting of conforming decoration, 18 mm diameter. Condition: Currently ticking but not recently serviced or timed. Some general wear to stones. Diamond have been hand cut and are of varying quality but overall stones are well matched. French marks to the inside of the case of the pocketwatch pin fitting of brooch signed. The fleur de lys brooch can be detached from watch and each worn independantly,

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  • Crown Wind - A winding method for a watch, using a knurled or fluted knob, located at 3 o'clock on a wristwatch and 12 o'clock on a pocketwatch.
  • Gilding - Gilding is a method of ornamentation whereby a thin sheet of gold metal is applied to items made of wood, leather, ceramics, glass and silver for decorative purposes.

    For furniture including mirrors, the sheet of gold is usually applied over a coating of gesso. Gesso is a mixture of plaster of Paris and gypsum mixed with water and then applied to the carved wooden frames of mirrors and picture frames as a base for applying the gold leaf. After numerous coats of gesso have been applied, allowed to dry and then sanded a coat of "bole", a usually red coloured mixture of clay and glue is brushed on and allowed to dry, after which the gold leaf is applied. Over time parts of the gilding will rub off so the base colour can be seen. In water gilding, this was generally a blue colour, while in oil gilding, the under layer was often yellow. In Victorian times, gilders frequently used red as a pigment beneath the gold leaf.

    Metal was often gilded by a process known as fire gilding. Gold mixed with mercury was applied and heated, causing the mercury to evaporate, the long-term effect of which was to kill or disable the craftsman or woman from mercury poisoning. The pursuit of beauty has claimed many victims, not the least of which were the artists who made those pieces so highly sought after today.
  • Movement - The technical name for the workings of a clock or watch, and does not include the dial or case.

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