A pave diamond bombe ring, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, circa…
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A pave diamond bombe ring, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, circa 1970's. Set with fifty-five modern brilliant cut diamonds of estimated total weight 3.70 carats, in rope twist mount. 18ct yellow gold and platinum. Weight 14.57 grams. Size N. Signed VCA and numbered 86234. French assay marks.

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  • Brilliant Cut - In their naturally occuring state diamonds have little life or sparkle and for many centuries were simply cut in half and worn in amulets. Invented at the end of the 17th century by a Venetian diamond cutter, a "brilliant cut" diamond has 58 facets arranged in a regular geometric relationship, with 33 above the crown and 25 below on the pavilion.

    The introduction of the brilliant cut increased the popularity of diamonds in jewellery as it was the first cut to reveal the fire of the diamond, with the light being internally reflected from one facet to another, and was superior to the previously used table cut and rose cut.Variants to the brilliant cut have emerged since the end of the 17th century, but the popularity of the original brilliant cut has continued to the present time, where it is still the most commonly found cut.

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  • Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
  • Bombe Design in Jewellery - In the early 18th century, during the reign of Louis XIV, French court jewellers developed a new style of jewellery called "bombĂ©" because of its bulging, curved shape.

    The bombe design can be found in various styles of jewellery, from Georgian, Victorian, Art nouveau, to Art Deco and Retro eras, with the materials and techniques reflecting the era the jewellery was made.

    The design is used for rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings, where a curved or rounded shape is emphasized, giving an organic look to the piece, with the piece often made of gold and set with precious stones, such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. The bombe design was also paired with other design elements such as engraving, enamelling, or gemstones
  • Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
  • Pave Setting - Pave setting is a style of setting stones in jewellery where the small stones are placed close together in holes drilled in the metal, the burr of the metal around the stone being pressed over the edges to hold the stone in position.

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