1890 Diamond Tiara with Convertible Necklace
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An attractive diamond tiara, circa 1890 designed as an expertly graduated knife wire fringe of old European and rose-cut diamonds, the largest weighing approximately 1.15 carats, issuing similarly-set foliate terminals, converting to a necklace, three small diamonds deficient, estimated total diamond weight 25.85 carats, mounted in silver and gold, necklace length 39 cm, tiara frame length 24.50 cm. Since ancient times, there has always been a desire for head adornments; from humble materials such as flowers and leaves creating a wreath, to precious metals and magnificent gems that graced the Coronation of Kings and queens. According to Pliny the elder in 'The natural History' (AD 77), Dionysus, the God of wine, was the first to invent the diadem: the emblem of royalty. Ancient civilizations often treated the diadem as a symbol of rank and honour with ceremonial wreaths given to the winners in competition. The oldest jewellery design study in Chaumet's archives, famed as the official jeweller to Napoleon I and Empress Josephine, is an 18th century tiara in the style of French Neoclassicism, celebrating the flora and fauna of the four seasons. Over time the tiara gradually weaved a strong association with the symbol of romance. An 18th century painting by Jean-Baptiste Greuze depicts a Roman maiden kneeled under cupid, the God of desire and affection. In return, she receives a floral diadem that symbolizes the crowning of love.
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- Rose Cut - A flat based cut for a preious stone, leaving the surface covered with triangular facets, usually 24 in total.
It was introduced in the 15th century and popular during the 16th and 17th centuries.
The rose cut was the most popular form of diamond cut until the discovery of the brilliant cut at the end of the 17th century, after which its use declined. - Foliate - Decorated with leaves or leaf-like forms.
- Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
- Cupid Motif - The Cupid motif, which features the Roman god of love and desire, Cupid, was a popular decorative element in classical ornamentation. Cupid was often depicted as a winged, naked baby with a bow and arrow, and was often used to symbolize love and desire.
In classical art and architecture, Cupid motifs were often used as decorative elements on furniture, such as on the legs of chairs and tables, as well as on architectural elements such as friezes and pediments. They were also used as decorative elements in frescoes, mosaics, and other forms of art.
During the Renaissance, Cupid motifs were often incorporated into the decoration of palaces, churches and other grand buildings, as they were seen as symbols of love and fertility. Cupid motifs were also commonly used in the decorative arts of the Baroque period, often appearing in the form of putti, which are small winged cherub figures.
In addition to their decorative use, Cupid motifs were also believed to hold symbolic meaning, as they were thought to evoke feelings of love, desire, and fertility. - Manner of .... / Style of ..... - A cataloguing term where the item, in the opinion of the cataloguer is a work in the style of the artist, craftsman or designer, possibly of a later period.
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