A pendant by Givenchy, of shark tooth design, in oxidised and…
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A pendant by Givenchy, of shark tooth design, in oxidised and gilded metal to a long guilded curblink chain, total length 88 cm. In excellent condition. This is a piece that has seldom been used and shows little to no wear.

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  • Gilding - Gilding is a method of ornamentation whereby a thin sheet of gold metal is applied to items made of wood, leather, ceramics, glass and silver for decorative purposes.

    For furniture including mirrors, the sheet of gold is usually applied over a coating of gesso. Gesso is a mixture of plaster of Paris and gypsum mixed with water and then applied to the carved wooden frames of mirrors and picture frames as a base for applying the gold leaf. After numerous coats of gesso have been applied, allowed to dry and then sanded a coat of "bole", a usually red coloured mixture of clay and glue is brushed on and allowed to dry, after which the gold leaf is applied. Over time parts of the gilding will rub off so the base colour can be seen. In water gilding, this was generally a blue colour, while in oil gilding, the under layer was often yellow. In Victorian times, gilders frequently used red as a pigment beneath the gold leaf.

    Metal was often gilded by a process known as fire gilding. Gold mixed with mercury was applied and heated, causing the mercury to evaporate, the long-term effect of which was to kill or disable the craftsman or woman from mercury poisoning. The pursuit of beauty has claimed many victims, not the least of which were the artists who made those pieces so highly sought after today.
  • Oxidised (finish in Jewellery) - An oxidised finish in jewellery, particularly gold, refers to a surface treatment that intentionally darkens or blackens the metal surface to create an antique or vintage look. The process involves using a chemical solution to speed up the natural tarnishing or corrosion of the metal, resulting in a dark, matte or semi-matte finish.

    In gold jewellery, oxidised finishes are typically applied to lower karat gold alloys, such as 14k or 18k gold, rather than higher karat gold, such as 22k or 24k gold. This is because lower karat gold alloys contain more base metals, such as copper, which are more reactive and prone to tarnishing.

    Oxidised finishes in gold jewellery can create a wide range of looks, from a subtle aged patina to a more dramatic blackened finish, depending on the strength and duration of the chemical treatment. This type of finish can add depth and character to jewellery designs, and is often used to create contrast between different elements or textures in a piece.

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