Afghan Turkoman Silver and Carnelian Hair-Piece
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An Afghan Turkoman parcel gilt silver and carnelian Hair-Piece, circa 19th/Early 20th century, the hair ornament constructed from foliate/lozenge-shaped silver panels with incised designs and partly gilded with fumed gold-work, each set with an oval flat cut carnelian gem, the panels joined together to each other by silver rings, forming a diagonal lattice, with hollow work silver pendants suspended from the lower two trapezoidal panels., approximately 55 cm long. Provenance: collected in Afghanistan, 2007.
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- Carnelian Glass - Carnelian glass is a type of glass that is colored red, orange, or brownish-red. It is made by adding iron oxide to the glass mixture. The color of carnelian glass can vary depending on the amount of iron oxide that is added, as well as the firing temperature. Carnelian glass is often used to make beads, jewellery, and other decorative items. It can also be used to make stained glass windows and other art objects. Carnelian glass is sometimes called "carnelian chalcedony" or "carnelian quartz."
Carnelian glass was first made in the Roman Empire. It was also made in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Mesopotamia. Carnelian glass was not made again until the Renaissance, when it became popular again. Today, carnelian glass is made in many countries around the world. - Parcel Gilt - An item or component that is partially gilded, the purpose of the gilding being to accentuate the decoration. For example a silver vessel may have gilded highlights, or the leg of a table or chair may have gilded carvings.
- Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
- Incised - A record of a name, date or inscription, or a decoration scratched into a surface, usually of a glass or ceramic item with a blunt instrument to make a coarse indentation. Compare with engraving where the surface is cut with a sharp instrument such as a metal needle or rotating tool to achieve a fine indentation.
- Gilding - Gilding is a method of ornamentation whereby a thin sheet of gold metal is applied to items made of wood, leather, ceramics, glass and silver for decorative purposes.
For furniture including mirrors, the sheet of gold is usually applied over a coating of gesso. Gesso is a mixture of plaster of Paris and gypsum mixed with water and then applied to the carved wooden frames of mirrors and picture frames as a base for applying the gold leaf. After numerous coats of gesso have been applied, allowed to dry and then sanded a coat of "bole", a usually red coloured mixture of clay and glue is brushed on and allowed to dry, after which the gold leaf is applied. Over time parts of the gilding will rub off so the base colour can be seen. In water gilding, this was generally a blue colour, while in oil gilding, the under layer was often yellow. In Victorian times, gilders frequently used red as a pigment beneath the gold leaf.
Metal was often gilded by a process known as fire gilding. Gold mixed with mercury was applied and heated, causing the mercury to evaporate, the long-term effect of which was to kill or disable the craftsman or woman from mercury poisoning. The pursuit of beauty has claimed many victims, not the least of which were the artists who made those pieces so highly sought after today.
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