A vintage rhinestone and cameo bracelet c.1950 glass beads,…
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A vintage rhinestone and cameo bracelet c.1950 glass beads, rhinestones, resin cameos, mounted upon scrolled and foliate gilded panels, length 19 cm

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  • Diamante / Rhinestone - A diamante and a rhinestone are both imitation diamonds made from glass, rock crystal or acrylic. Originally rhinestones were rock crystals mined from the Rhine river Rhine in the 18th century, but the term is now associated with any imitation diamonds. Diamantes and a rhinestones are used in costume jewellery, in clothing and accessories, and were especially popular in the 1930s,
  • Gilding - Gilding is a method of ornamentation whereby a thin sheet of gold metal is applied to items made of wood, leather, ceramics, glass and silver for decorative purposes.

    For furniture including mirrors, the sheet of gold is usually applied over a coating of gesso. Gesso is a mixture of plaster of Paris and gypsum mixed with water and then applied to the carved wooden frames of mirrors and picture frames as a base for applying the gold leaf. After numerous coats of gesso have been applied, allowed to dry and then sanded a coat of "bole", a usually red coloured mixture of clay and glue is brushed on and allowed to dry, after which the gold leaf is applied. Over time parts of the gilding will rub off so the base colour can be seen. In water gilding, this was generally a blue colour, while in oil gilding, the under layer was often yellow. In Victorian times, gilders frequently used red as a pigment beneath the gold leaf.

    Metal was often gilded by a process known as fire gilding. Gold mixed with mercury was applied and heated, causing the mercury to evaporate, the long-term effect of which was to kill or disable the craftsman or woman from mercury poisoning. The pursuit of beauty has claimed many victims, not the least of which were the artists who made those pieces so highly sought after today.
  • Foliate - Decorated with leaves or leaf-like forms.
  • Paste / Rhinestone / Diamante - Paste (or rhinestone or diamante) is the name given to a coloured glass composition used for imitation gemstones, or to imitation gemstones made of glass.

    Although the technique of glassmaking had been known for thousands of years, but it wasn't until a lead glass with similar optical properties to diamonds were invented by a German jeweller working in Paris (either "Stras" or 'Strasser") in the early 18th century that "paste" gemstones became popular.

    There was no social stigma attached to wearing imitation stones, and they were worn in situations where highway robbery was a possibility. The 18th century settings were of very high quality, equivilent to real gemstone jewellery.

    In the nineteeth century the quality of paste jewellery declined and it has remained the poor cousin to genuine gemstones ever since.

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