A rare and most Handsome Mandarin's court hat, Chaoguan, with…
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A rare and most Handsome Mandarin's court hat, Chaoguan, with original boxed, Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), circa 1870, the gilded hat spike indicates a fourth rank by the blue Peking glass spike and blue cabochon. The official would wear this hat when wearing his chaofu robe and piling collar. The hat is covered with a red flossed silk instead of the traditional tassels. A centrally placed (simulated) pearl on the rim indicates the front of the hat, with green peking glass plume holder. The hat with original box. Hats of this style rarely appear on the market. The laws pertaining to the jewelled hats were written in 1636. The jewel on these hats closely resembles the lamaist stone called Rdo-rje 'Master' stone, symbolising a pure mind, the gem capable of cutting through any substance, but which itself could not be penetrated. Many priests of the lamaist church wore hats surmounted by such 'Master stones'. Provenance: Ex private American collection, purchased from Linda Wrigglesworth, London, in 1996., Literature, G. Dickinson and L. Wrigglesworth, Imperial wardrobe, Berkeley, rev. Ed., 2000. Other Notes: for similar, please see: Christie's, south Kensington, 9 November 2012, Lot 1298

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  • Gilding - Gilding is a method of ornamentation whereby a thin sheet of gold metal is applied to items made of wood, leather, ceramics, glass and silver for decorative purposes.

    For furniture including mirrors, the sheet of gold is usually applied over a coating of gesso. Gesso is a mixture of plaster of Paris and gypsum mixed with water and then applied to the carved wooden frames of mirrors and picture frames as a base for applying the gold leaf. After numerous coats of gesso have been applied, allowed to dry and then sanded a coat of "bole", a usually red coloured mixture of clay and glue is brushed on and allowed to dry, after which the gold leaf is applied. Over time parts of the gilding will rub off so the base colour can be seen. In water gilding, this was generally a blue colour, while in oil gilding, the under layer was often yellow. In Victorian times, gilders frequently used red as a pigment beneath the gold leaf.

    Metal was often gilded by a process known as fire gilding. Gold mixed with mercury was applied and heated, causing the mercury to evaporate, the long-term effect of which was to kill or disable the craftsman or woman from mercury poisoning. The pursuit of beauty has claimed many victims, not the least of which were the artists who made those pieces so highly sought after today.
  • Qing Dynasty - The Qing Dynasty was the last imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1644 to 1912. It was established by the Manchu people, who originated from the northeastern region of China. The Qing Dynasty was preceded by the Ming Dynasty and followed by the Republic of China.
  • Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
  • Ming Dynasty - The Ming Dynasty was a ruling dynasty of China from 1368 to 1644. It succeeded the Yuan Dynasty and preceded the Qing Dynasty. The Ming Dynasty was established by Zhu Yuanzhang, a former Buddhist monk who became a rebel leader and eventually overthrew the Mongol Yuan Dynasty. During the Ming Dynasty, China experienced a period of relative stability and prosperity. The government was centralized and bureaucratic, with the emperor at the top of the hierarchy. The Ming Dynasty is known for its cultural achievements, including the development of porcelain, the invention of movable type printing, and the construction of the Great Wall of China.

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