A cocktail ring by Lanvin, styled with coloured paste set in…
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A cocktail ring by Lanvin, styled with coloured paste set in oxidised metal, from the Summer 2009 collection, boxed

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  • Paste / Rhinestone / Diamante - Paste (or rhinestone or diamante) is the name given to a coloured glass composition used for imitation gemstones, or to imitation gemstones made of glass.

    Although the technique of glassmaking had been known for thousands of years, but it wasn't until a lead glass with similar optical properties to diamonds were invented by a German jeweller working in Paris (either "Stras" or 'Strasser") in the early 18th century that "paste" gemstones became popular.

    There was no social stigma attached to wearing imitation stones, and they were worn in situations where highway robbery was a possibility. The 18th century settings were of very high quality, equivilent to real gemstone jewellery.

    In the nineteeth century the quality of paste jewellery declined and it has remained the poor cousin to genuine gemstones ever since.
  • Oxidised (finish in Jewellery) - An oxidised finish in jewellery, particularly gold, refers to a surface treatment that intentionally darkens or blackens the metal surface to create an antique or vintage look. The process involves using a chemical solution to speed up the natural tarnishing or corrosion of the metal, resulting in a dark, matte or semi-matte finish.

    In gold jewellery, oxidised finishes are typically applied to lower karat gold alloys, such as 14k or 18k gold, rather than higher karat gold, such as 22k or 24k gold. This is because lower karat gold alloys contain more base metals, such as copper, which are more reactive and prone to tarnishing.

    Oxidised finishes in gold jewellery can create a wide range of looks, from a subtle aged patina to a more dramatic blackened finish, depending on the strength and duration of the chemical treatment. This type of finish can add depth and character to jewellery designs, and is often used to create contrast between different elements or textures in a piece.

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